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The trouble is, we’ve developed an appetite for it. Michael Moss, an investigative reporter at The New York Times and author of Fat, Sugar and Salt: How the Food Giants Hooked Us, has researched the history of processed food. Among those he interviewed was the food scientist Steven Witherly, the author of an industry report called Why Humans Like Junk Food. Witherly sang the praises of Cheetos, exactly the sort of ultra-processed food that people eat when they don’t cook for themselves. “This is one of the most marvellously constructed foods on the planet, in terms of pure pleasure,” said Witherly. The crucial factor? “It’s called vanishing caloric density. If something melts down quickly in your mouth, your brain thinks there’s no calories in it… you can just keep eating it forever.” Reading this, food processing sounds like a battle for control – of your appetite, your wallet, your very character. In Western Europe alone, £9.5 billion-worth of ready meals are sold every year. The UK has the largest share of that market, spending £2.5 billion on ready meals annually.
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The world is ageing at an unprecedented rate as births decline and longevity improves. This ageing effect is acute in wealthier, developed countries where these two factors – fewer children and longer lives – combine most dramatically.
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There are other issues too. Only a small number of TVs are capable of powering the Chromecast stick through their HDMI port alone. That means you still need an extra USB port or power outlet to deliver juice to the Chromecast.
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She ought to have heeded the warning signs. A newspaper once asked Winner how he would go about spending £100 million. “Only £100million?” he riposted. “I could spend that much very quickly indeed – in a matter of seconds in fact.”